Day 17 / Tonnerre - Cravant / 38.9 km

I slept well. I wake up. I look outside and the rooftops are covered by a thin layer of snow. A winter sun is shining in a blue sky. I can see the cold outside. Breakfeast is only served at 8 o’clock. As it it is only 7 o’clock I slowly pack my backpack. 

During breakfeast I chat with the CH owner. He is originally from Paris but came to Tonnerre after retirement with his wife. He likes Vespa’s and canoeing. I always forget to take pictures of the people I meet, although I had planned to do so. 

After breakfeast I start running. Not directly. The first couple of kilometers I need to climb a hill. On to of the hill there is a great view over the village and surroundings.

Today I want to reach Cravant. Some 39 km away. Although I have taped my toes as good as possible and created a “faux-toenail” I’m some concerned the will give me problems. For the time being they are cooperative. After the hillThe running   can start. The path today is mainly over small roads and paths. I’m looking forward to have a great day. 

I cross again endless field. I dive into a valley where there is a TGV trainline Every 15 minutes a train passes by. I take a picture in the hope it reflects the sound and speed at which it’s flashing by. I guess it is doing at least 250 km/h. 

I continue to run. Through big, empty, fields. Sometimes the underground is “runnable”. Sometimes there is to much mud. Climbing hills. Descending hills. My first target village today is Chablis (which I intended to reach yesterday). After climbing another hill I run pass the first Chablis vineyard. 

Suddenly I’m surrounded by vineyards. People are working. I start a little chat with some of them. They do not understand me as they are from Bulgaria. When I look at the license plates of parked cars I do not see a lot of French license plates. Most of them are from Eastern Europe countries. 

I enter Chablis. Contrary to the other villages I passed so far it’s obvious  Chablis has made the region wealthy. The village is well maintained. Shops and people look prosperous. The most common French word I encountered so far : “a vendre” is not to be seen. I go into a bakery, order some pain au raisin and chocolat. I go to a (fancy) bar and have a coffee. It’s 10.30 and at least 7 customers are drinking bear, not wine, at the counter. 

After I finish my coffee and pain au raisin I continue running. I have  done already 19 km. Another 20 to go. Altough it’s cold (around 2/3 degrees) it’s a great day. The landscape is nice. A hesitant sun. Small, mudfree, paths. Steep hills with long descents, allowing effortless running. I think it’s my best day so far.

Vineyards are being replaced by fields again. I’m leaving the core Chablis region. I have a last hill to climb. the last 8 kilometres are again ascending. Today If ascended 1000 meter and descended 900. I enter Cravant and stop running. I noticed that when I walk the last 2 km of a day my legs recuperate better. 

Cravant is a nice village. I go into “Le Marie”which is open (contrary to everything else) to get a stamp in my credential.  In France most shops are closed on Monday, Sunday’s, Saterday afternoons , all hours between 12.30 and 16.00, not before 10.00, not after 18.00 and official holidays. Travailler c’est trop dur....Oke I will stop complaining. 

I find my hotel which I booked for 30 € on booking.com. You get what you’re paying for. The room is shabby, no heating except a small electric heater. The restaurant linked to the hotel stopped operating definitely since last weekend. I check google.No other restaurants in the neighbourhood are open today. The guy who is managing the hotel informs me a grocery will open later. I buy some pilgrim’s food : local cheese, -wine, - dried sausage, bread and coco yogurt. A feast !

I hear “German-French” talking in the corridor. Herman(n) is bicycling to Compostella.German.Retired.Lives in the Netherlands and has left 5 days ago from home. He does around 120 km per day on his bike.Yesterday only 100. Snow is his excuse. I’m not the only crazy person around. I invite Herman(n) for a drink. I have wine and 1 glass. Herman(n) will bring thee, chocolate, sugar, his own heater and 2 cups. All from home. German grundlichheit all the way. Didn’t take a picture of Herman(n). I forgot. Again.

Lessons learned today :

- Dry weather above every weather.

- I can do 50 km’s a day - should I want to.

- When being a longer time alone - one starts talking to themselves- should I be concerned know  ?

- In France they know also :”is het erg ? Het is ietske meer....”

- Tomorrow the route to Vézelay will be along a canal. Which means no hills. Yeapy ! Or is it Joepie ?

Song of the day : Travailler c’est trop dur - Alpha Blondy


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