Day 26 / Châteauroux - Argenton-sur-Creuze / 38.73 km

When I opened the shutters Monsieur Agricole delivered as promised. A steady pour of rain. I’m tempted for 20 minutes to take the train to my today’s destination Argenton-sur-Creuze. A train leaves at 11.09 and cost 7€ one-way. I abandon the idea as I will never be able to forgive myself not having run the complete route. I go downstairs for a not price/quality balanced breakfeast.

I pack, put on all my rain stuff, check out and start running. Although it’s raining, today will be better than yesterday: after 18k I will find a bar (where I plan to dry my clothes) and bakery (providing lunch), I will run 12 k through forrest, the scenery will change for the better and tomorrow no rain is planned during daytime. So running a day in the rain will bring me closer to a non-rain day. Pilgrim’s logic. The distance today is around 38 km. Which means with the planned bar stop after 18km I will only have to do 2 shower runs. Somewhat to my surprise I’m out of the city and into the green after 2 km. Some 5 km further I dive into a forest.

In the forest, every 3 km, I pass a crossroad. I’m thinking about the story of Robert Johnson,the blues singer, who is believed  to have sold his soul to the devil at a crossroad to be a better blues guitarist. Maybe I should sell my soul to the devil for better weather. 

I exit the woods and do another 2 km before the anticipated bar/bakery stop. I enter the village. The bakery is closed. But the bar is open. As often, the bar distributes bread and cakes when the local bakery has it’s day off. I putt all my rain gear, and my running shirt,  on the central heating an put it on maximum. Whilst the gear is drying I  eat a baguette fromage. I have a lengthy conversation with Jean (who is installing a security system and is from Limoges) about Compostela, work, Airbnb, quality of baguettes, economy, wine and pavements. After 1 hour I decide it’s time to go. It’s still raining, although not so hard anymore. 

During the 20km to Argenton the changes in the landscape become more visible :more and steeper hills, greener, castles, smaller fields alternated by forests, smaller roads and no people. Rain continues to fall combined with a more stronger wind which blows straight into my face. When I have done 34 km my legs, the hills and the headwind decide I have done enough running and I hike the last 4 km into Argenton.

Argenton is a nice village which probably attracts a lot of tourists when it’s warmer and not raining. Not sure to what extend the “Musee de la Chemiserie” is adding to the tourist influx. When I check the museum it’s not open. Maybe the museum has been relocated to Vietnam.The village has a lot of old buildings which still have a wooden facade, food specialty shops and I counted 7  hotel-restaurants (of which 2 for sale) while walking to the Airbnb I was staying tonight.

The Airbnb I’m staying is managed by Laurence, who works as a nurse in Argenton but is origlinally from the Marseille area. The room is great and silent. I buy some food at the local supermarket and have since a long time a non-restaurant dinner. During diner I watch with Laurence a television program called “Les Marseillais en Australie”. A must see program if you need to witness imbecility. Tomorrow Monsieur Agricole predicts dry weather,even some sun, between 6.00 and 16.00. I will sleep at the pilgrims gite of Crozant.If Monsieur Agricole is correct it will be a great day.

Lessons learned :

- “Paté de Paques” is friande but with boiled eggs added.

- A baguette fromage in Velles comes with at least 200 gr butter. 

- Rain is no excuse to take a train.

Song of the day : Mr.Bojangles - Nina Simone

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