Day 36 / Sourzac - Sainte-Foy-La-Grande / 41.08 km
After breakfeast I say goodbye to Kiki and Georges. Which I invited to share the Airbnb I rented in Sainte Foy which can accommodate 4 people. I start running. It’s grey and rain is predicted. Quite the different from yesterday’s weather. I follow a road to reconnect with the Compostela Route in Mussidan. In Mussidan it’s market day. A lot of regional products are sold varying from meat, cheese,vegetables,...it all looks very tasty. I settle with some clementines and bread/cheese for lunch. I continue to run. After around 3 km I meet a man who is hiking. I explain I’m going to Sainte Foy. He explains I’m running in the wrong direction. I was following the gps track on my Garmin but running in the wrong way. Strangely my Garmin didn’t warn me. The only thing to do is to return. An additional 6 km for today and 40km day eventually. I’m somewhat angry with myself.
After again passing the Mussidan Market I’m running in the right direction It’s already 9.45. Today, as yesterday is running through hilly landscape, a lot of steep ascents and descents. By the end of today again around 1500 height meters. The weather is not to bad. Today I do not pass any bar or shops. The paths are often wet and muddy, with wet feet as result. My runnings shoes are suffering and I’m somewhat concerned they will be worn out before I get my new pair of running shoes, 300 k further.
With all the ascents and not so good paths it’s a tough day. Luckily I meet some people on the way. A farmer who has also a pilgrims gite. He asks If I’m the one who made reservations for today.I’m not but it seems it’s the place my companions from the day before will be staying. He also informs me that 3 pilgrims are ahead of me. Some 8 km further, after I had lunch in a small village, I pickup a Flemish pilgrim, Jan from Antwerp but living in Bruges. He started walking the Camino in 2017 does trips of 1 to 2 weeks. He hopes somewhere to complete the route in 2019. Next Friday he’s going back home. I walk a few kilometres with him but say eventually goodbye. Probably I will see him again somewhere this week. I guess Tuesday. I’m getting closer to Sainte Foy as the number of vineyards increase. Sainte Foy produces a AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) wine. The vineyards are cultivated against sometimes steep hills. The views are great.Unfortunate the climbs not so....
After a last descent I arrive at Porte-Sainte-Foy et Ponchapt which is still the Dordogne. Across the bridge I arrive in Sainte-Foy-la-Grande which is in the Gironde department. On the way I pass a Sainte Foy La Grande house which seems to be berry angry with it’s Porte Sainte Foy neighbours.
I enter the city. Saterday afternoon 15.00 means everything is closed except a small supermarket where I buy some cold drinks and food. The small Airbnb duplex is perfect, having all the conveniences required, clean,reasonable WIFI, terrace,....the only disappointment is that the owner doesn’t want additional people to stay this weekend. The reason is not entirely clear to me. I inform Kiki and George that they will need to look for an alternative place. Maybe we will still have a drink together on Sunday.
The rest of the afternoon I chill, take a shower and eat crisps. In the evening I treat myself with the menu “épicurist” in a restaurant recommended by the Airbnb owner. Soupe, foie gras, riz de veaux, cheese, tiramisu and some Sainte Foy AOC. After dinner I can hardly get up. I return to the Airbnb to fall asleep. Probably I snore but there are no witnesses around to complain.
Lessons learned :
- One can have to much Foie Gras.
- Ice creams are difficult to be found.
- The day before a rest day is the thoughest day of the week.
Song of the day : Nooit naar nergens - Yuevgeni
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