Day 12 / Vitry-Le-François - Chavagnes / 38.2 km

How I like these cheap French hotels : soft beds, cheap food and the feeling you are in the same bed of your neighbours when they are making love. L’amour c’est fantastique ! 

One observation I want to share is that French beds seem slightly shorter. I’m often hitting the end of the bed. Could it be that French beds are “Napoleon sized” ? (The fact that Napoleon was small is although a fairytale - I understood from a documentary I saw some time ago). Anyone similar experiences ? 

When I woke up Meteo Argricole delivered what it had promised the day before : a blue sky and sun ! When I got out of bed I noticed my legs were more stiff then usual so I opted for some pre-breakfeast stretching which helped somewhat but not completely. I had ran  quite a lot the last 2 days, so no surprise. 

After breakfeast I hit the road. My first objective was to buy food for the day as all the villages I would pass do not have any shops. I was looking forward to have my lunch in the sun somewhere in the countryside. I bought some food at a Umarket which I passed. I also planned to follow the GR trail (When raining I opt for the roads instead)as I wanted to really enjoy the countryside.

The first Kilometers went fine although the legs stiffness. After some time I stopped at the last bar I encountered and had a great espresso for 1€ - eat that Starbucks. The owner drove still his old Peugeot. Within 5 years it will not longer be possible to drive such car in Belgium cities.

I continued my run and passed the great village - at least based upon it’s name - called : 

Yes that’s the full name. The village had a population of 592 in 1999. I think the populatin count is currently around the the number of letters in the village name : 35. The village has a nice church with some half-timbered architecture which is used a lot in this region.

The GR was great. In the beginning. After some km’s the paved path changed into a mud pad. A mud pad wit a lot of pools and frogs. I tried to keep my feet dry but was not successful.I was really not successful....The views were although great ! I was happy to finally being  able to soak some sun.

After 25 km I reached the village called Outines where I had my sunny lunch.The church and most houses are half timbered. The church is almost entirely constructed out of wood and is a demonstration of great craftsmanship. A lot of houses are derelict and for sale. I did not see anyone in the village except a car who drove by to check me out I assume. I waved but the car did not stop. I had the experience before that people (mainly elderly) seem to go quickly  inside when they see me. It’s not easy socializing.

The house in the OIC below is a gold example on hoe derelict the houses sometimes are. You probably would not believe someone is still living in this house. Reality is that when I passed someone closed the curtains.

I continued my journey en encountered this pilgrim. Untill now I did not encouner any other pilgrims. The people I meet tell me l’m the first pilgrim they meet this year. Although 2 chambres Hotes owners informed me they had a pilgrim start February. Both thought he was crazy so he doesn’t seem to count.

When entering my destination-village I found the garage where the Peugeot owner I met this morning comes to fuel up his car.

I was quite happy to have today’s end point. My legs where not entirely cooperating today. The last 5 km I walked in order to rest my legs and the road was climbing to much. I must say I enjoyed the walk. 

Today I’m sleeping in a Chambre Hotes but will need to go out for dinner. To my surprise the rather small village does not only have a shop, a bakery, a pharmacy but also a restaurant which is still operational. After taking a shower I quickly visited the church and cemetery. The church has beautiful glass windows (based upon drawings of Albert Dürer). The cemetery a lot of old tombstones and people of varying age.

I also want to give a great thanks to  Meteo Agricole delivering beyond expectation. When arriving in Chavagnes it was 17.5º ! Tomorrow a lot of rain is expected, this weekend temperatures will drop to 2º - 4º. Hey you can’t have everything.I run with the flow.

Lessons learned :

- Sun over rain.

- 2 pizza’s in a row is called a regular diet

Song of the day : The Partisan - Leonard Cohen

T.

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