Day 15 / Bar sur Seine - Étourvy / 30.1 km

Yesterday a toe and his nail finally divorced.What looked in the beginning to be a divorce with mutual agreement changed into a painfully affair as  the toe wined all night. The toe was joined by another toe wining after that toe was bumped against the bathroom floor when his owner went to the bathroom. Blood was involved, big SHXT’s and FXXXS were expressed. Initial assessment made me fear for the worst. There was  although nothing I could do except to put some tape around the toe and take some painkillers to forget the toe wining. Finally I fell asleep again.

At 6 I’m awake. The first thing I try is to fit my feet into my shoes. I get my feet into my shoes but walking around is painful. I try a short run. Even more painful. I try different bandages. None of them are reducing the pain. The pain is caused by the pressure created by the combination of my socks and bandages. To thick. Creating a painful pressure on my toes. The solution is either to shorten my  toes or remove the socks. I choose to remove the socks.

After some testing I’m confident I can run this way. Time to pack and start running. It’s  raining again. Mister Meto agricole predicts another day of “shower running”. I step into my rainpants. I tear them. I ducktape them. I’m feeling like Mcgyver today. I’m not so happy with my WAA rainpaints. Yes they are light and reasonable beatheable but have already different holes and tears. I do no think they will see Compostela. No salvation for them. 

Eventually I’m ready to go. I buy some lunch food. 9.30. The first 5 kilometers are a steap climb. Running is not an option.I’m soaked when I reach the top. Another 25 k to go. I enter a plateau and start running. Rain keeps pouring down. Today I’m not in the mood for taking pictures. Imagine : desolate, green, hilly, rain, long straight roads, no people, grey sky, more rain. 

 

I pass a number of villages. No people oustside. I wish they came outside and offer me a coffee. Instead I assume they are sitting inside, in TL illuminated kitchens.Waiting for better weather. Looking at the French version of Idols or temptation Island.

The only living creatures outside are a crazy guy running to Compostella and small herds of roe running in the endless fields. Rain keeps pouring. I’m wet to to the bone. Another 5 km to go. A last steep climb followed by an even steeper descent. I arrive at a tiny village called Étourvy.Destination of today.  I’m staying with a Dutch lady who has come here to live in silence besides welcoming pilgrims on their way. I must say I’m a little sceptical to stay here, afraid the lady is a spiritual/new age kind of person. In contrast I experience Ingeborg  (Crum) to be the opposite ; down to earth with feet strongly on the ground, open-hearted, open-minded and a a lot of love and hospitality for people in general and pilgrims especially.

After getting dry and  warm I spend the of the afternoon talking with Ingeborg, chatting with daughters, wife and friends. After all it has been a nice and interesting day.

Lessons learned :

- When going to the bathroom in unknown areas it is better to put on the light.

- Never underestimate the power of ducttape.

- Courageous Dutch people living in the middle of nowhere France.

- Tomorrow it will snow. So maybe I will sip my Chablis whilst making a snowman.

Song of the day : I’m not fine - School is Cool 

T.

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