Day 19 / Vézelay - Varzy / 37.59 km

As I could not sleep last night I quickly painted the Vézelay Basilique. An expo is planned this summer together with my other work on the region.

I wake up at 7. Which has become my regular wake up hour. Breakfeast is not until 8.30 so I start packing. When entering the breakfeast room I’m not alone. A woman is heaving breakfeast already. She asks me if I’m a pilgrim. I have to think about that but finally confirm. She decided yesterday she wants to walk the Compostella path. She’s is wearing the “typical” hikers outfit : walking boots, -pants, -shirt. The outfit doesn’t looks as if it has a lot of mileage yet. She asks me what she should take with her. I think common sense.But answer politely “a backpack”. She thinks that is a good idea. She’s off to the hotel owner to ask where she can buy a backpack.I do not see her again. I start my breakfeast, which is plenty. I commit breakfeast theft by taking some butter and cheese spread.

When I check out the breakfeast lady gives me some bread rolls as the bakery is closed today. I buy some cheese and biscuits and I’m off, The weather is cold but the sky is blue and the sun shining. In Vézelay you need either to choose the northern -(via Bourges)  or the south- (via Nevers) route. Both routes join again in Garilesse Dampierre. I will take the Northern route as I want to see Bourges. But also it is the route with least height differences. 

I start with a steep climb. The weather is great, the landscape beautiful. I feel it will be a superb day. I leave Vézelay behind me and run into a forrest. The ground is frozen, but is warming up. It’s the same feeling when skiing down a slope with perfect snow. I run effortlessly and have a lot of fun. It also helps that the “ballisage” is perfect ; every turn, change is of the path is well indicated. 

The joy can’t last for ever though. The path is sometimes muddy. But as result of the frost the last couple of days most of  the time runnable. But not always. I take a path which I think is ok but instead sink into at least 20 centimeters of soft mud.Initially I’m somewhat pissed but quickly change my mind as it wouldn’t change the fact my shoes are muddy. I remove the mud as much as I can. Luckily I will have a new pair of running shoes within 3 days.

I continue to run with my muddy shoes. It’s great.

I pass a village. Either they still do witch burning or  have an active SM club. Maybe it is combination. You can’t see it very well on the photo but the cage is large enough to hold 2 humans.

Around 12.30, after have done 30km, mostly running, it’s time for lunch. I stop at a nice village “lavoir”. A lavoir is public place to wash clothes. With the introduction of washing machines they do not have a lot use anymore. Most have taken away but the last 2 weeks I have passed some beautiful examples. Besides lavoirs I see the last 2 day’s a lot waterwells. Most of the villages I passed have at least one. 

I’m sure Jo would have like my lunch bread rolls with ememental and more bread rolls with Lotus Speculoos ! all consumed in outside in the sun. 

It’s only one a clock in the afternoon and I only need to do around 8 km. As my legs feel somewhat tired of the morning running, I have plenty of time, the weather is beautiful, I will do 43 km tomorrow and the last 8 km includes a steep hill I decide to hike the last 8 km’s. I put Pergolesis’ Stabat Mater in my ears and start walking. The music, the weather and landscape blend perfectly. I’m happy to be here.

The last 1 km I need to walk along a busy Route National into Varzy a somewhat bigger village. I go to the office the tourism for a stamp but the office doesn’t exists anymore. I go to “La Mairie”. It’s closed. Some people are working outside. One of the guys works for the community and fetches me a stamp. I ask where my Chambre D’hotes is. They point behind me. 50 meters and I’m home for today.

Lessons learned :

- The landscape is getting more beautiful the more I’m going south.

- The French have offen central heating, but rarely use it. They prefer to use small electric heaters instead.

- One can start the road to Compostella on impulse. 

- It was good to listen to my legs today and walk the last kilometres, rather then run. I still can hear them say : “thank you”

- You can buy a more then acceptable Cotes Du Rhône red wine for 4 euros in France.

Song of the day : Stabat Mater Dolorosa - Pergolesi

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