Day 20 / Varzy - La Charité sur Loire/ 41.36 km

The Chambre D’hotes I slept last night is owned by a lady who does ceramics. I’m not into ceramics. She was quite difficult on what I may do, and mainly on what not.I was not allowed to put the heating on (It was warm enough), I was not allowed to empty my backpack on the floor, the shower shouldn’t take to long. I could not hand wash my clothes but she was happy to do for 3 Euro. She did make a nice fish lasagna though. She could although improve her breakfeast easily. 3 pieces of bread, some marmalade and 1 cup of weak coffee is not my idea of a solid breakfeast.

I said farewell to the ceramics lady and her sick cat. And went straight to the bakery to buy some additional breakfeast and lunch. On my way to the bakery I passed a closed a lingerie shop which seemed to be already sometime out of business. I hope the wall will never be repainted.

I left Varzy by a Route National, with a plenty of traffic, which I left after 2 kilometres to dive again in the forrest. I would stay in the forrest for almost 35 km. Sometimes briefly surfacing into a meadow. The running was great. A lot of hills to climb though. I followed the Compostella path most of the time. Except when the path was taking a “detour” of 10 km km today) I plotted the day before my own path straight to the forrest based upon Google satellite images (technology is great). The path (almost non-existent) was great and took me deep in the forrest. Thanks to my Garmin I was able to pickup the Compostella path 5 km further. 

The weather had changed today. Less sun. More clouds, Somewhat warmer. In the afternoon the same cold North-Eastern wind of yesterday became stronger again). After my run through “unchartered forest” I ended up near an abandoned farm. The previous owner seemed to have an interest in cars as a the derelict barn contained even more derilict cars. I’m sure someone with a lot of time and love for cars could make the orange Peugeot great again. 

I continue to run. I see in the distance 2 backpacks.  My first encounter with other pilgrims. Two elderly ladies, both carrying a huge backpack (I assume I’m biased with my small running backpack). I introduce myself. Explain they are the first pilgrims I meet on the road. They are French. They are not very talkative. I learn they will sleep at the same place I will this evening. I wish them a good road. I don’t think we will have a party this evening. 

I continue to run. I take a lunch break around midday I have done almost 30 km by now, roughly 14 to go. There a not a lot lunch options around. I enter a village. See a wooden bench on the village square (ha) and decide to have lunch. I have the same lunch as yesterday. After 30 minutes I’m getting cold. Time to warmup. Run. 

I’m still running through a forrest. Suddenly I hear some dogs howling. 5 seconds later 2 hunting dogs appear on the path. I’m not sure if I’m the game they are chasing. I’m not. The dogs are magnificent. I don’t now which breed they are but you can directly see they are bred for the hunt. They seem to run effortless. Muscled back legs. All the time sniffing around. They follow me. Sometimes they howl and disappear in the forrest. Return. At a certain moment they start howling more intensely and disappear.  Strange I found them more talkative then the French pilgrim ladies I met before.

I continue to run. A straight path through the forrest. A lot of signs indicating  hunting and forestry activities. A lot of chopped trees along the way.Proof left behind that some people in France work

After 35 km I leave the forest and enter a small village. Google indicated a bakery-grocery would be open. Google was wrong it is closed. The cat doess her best to apologise.

Suddenly the the hills are gone and I enter the the Loire valley. No forests anymore but again big, almost flat,  fields. I already miss the landscape of the last days. My legs are getting tired. The path becomes muddy and wet. No longer runnable. Perfect timing and excuse to stop running. I walk the last 4 kilometres into La Charité sur Loire. Charité is a small village of 5000 inhabitants, some business and a Benedictine priory. 

I sleep in the local “sale de Pèlerin”.  When I enter there are already 2 elderly ladies (not the same I met this morning). They are more talkative. The place is a dump. Heating is limited. 1 wall outlet to share with 6 people. A bunkbed costs 14 €. Going to the toilet this night will certainly freeze my dxxk off. I’m sure it is a scam of the city to have pilgrims pay their debts. In order to avoid the cold I go to Bar-Tabac Tivoli to write today’s blog. The toilets are French. For a moment I agree with the Europe critics. You would have thought Europe would have voted  a law against these  by now.

Lessons learned :

- French toilets are not extinct.

- Dogs can appear from nothing.

- The road continues to be beautiful.

- A pilgrim can’t run on a French breakfeast.

Song of today : De Lifter -Isabelle A (trompet outro)

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