Day 47 / Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - Zubiri / 46.76 km
I arrive in Zubiri at 16.45, after a great day of running. I left this morning SJPdP with the plan to go to Roncesvalles, a 26 k stage. Today I would leave France by climbing Lapoedre, a 1400m climb, and enter Spain, Navarra. The stage is one of the most renowned stages on the Camino Frances. During the stage 1400 meters in height are to be covered and the from the base to the top it’s all ascent. It’s like the Mont Ventoux for cyclists. The scenery is described as fantastic if good weather. Mostly fog and rain are the compagnons of the pilgrims ascending to Lepoedre.
Between 7.00 and 8.00 I have breakfeast, pack my backbag and say goodbye to the hosts (If you ever plan to visit SJPdP I can recommend the apartment which I rented). I leave at eight and after a short run I start climbing the Route Napoleón. Pilgrims are plenty available. Pilgrims with big pack packs , new shoes, and often what looks a to high BMI. Yesterday at the info centre I learned that the average time to reach Roncesvalles is 7 hours and if you are in good shape 5 hours. The weather is beautiful, not yet to warm, a blue sky and no clouds. I think the pictures speak for themselves.
After 3 hours I reach the top. I passed a lot of pilgrims and the last 45 minutes I mostly walk alone. When arriving on the top I’m feeling great and have a short lunch stop. To Roncesvalles it’s a 5 km descent. I arrive 30 minutes later. It’s only 13.30. Besides the busses waiting to pickup the “luxe pilgrims” ( short organised stages without backpack) there are not a lot people are around. The Refugio does not open before 14.00 and after a drink I decide to run to the next the village, 7 k away. In Spain all the villages on the Camino,have plenty of places to sleep, bars and restaurants. As there is no need to book in advance I decide I will run each day until I want to stop, either if I’m tired or if I encounter a place of interest.
When I arrive at the next village, Aurizberri, I’m still in good shape. I passed some pilgrims but as most stick to the pre-described stages the pilgrim volume is low. I decide to run to Zubiri, roughly another 15 km further. The route is mainly descending with only one climb. The run in beautiful, sometimes in the sun but a lot of the time through a forest providing a lot of shade. It’s 27 º. 4 km before Zubiri I have a drink and meet a Belgian guy, Pieter, who is cycling to Santiago and afterwards to Portugal. Pieter is a photographer working for “newspaper of West Vlaanderen” and looking for West-Vlamingen on the Camino. My “ weuk” gives away I’m not a West-Vlaming but we have a nice chat anyway. Inclusion on the Camino. I say goodbye to Pieter. When I arrive in Zubiri I briefly consider to continue run to Pamplona but after a cold bear I opt for a local hostal. For 10 € I will sleep in the same room with 7 complete strangers. I share my melting chocolate, I hope it’s sufficient to forgive my snoring this night.
My shoes and socks got a good beating today (again). Not sure if the shoes will last another 50 k. My left sock did not and decided to quite today. Strangely there is a sports shop in front the hostel I’m staying, I buy a new pair of socks, which are really comfoooooooortable.
After shower, and being informed that my roommates are planning to wake up at 6.00 as they have a big stage to Pamplona (20km) I decide to have dinner and sufficient wine to sedate me sufficiently not to hear my roommates leave at six. The music at the restaurant is a 80-90 play list. The ring tune of the owners smartphone is “Big in Japan”.
Lessons learned :
- The path between SJPdP and Roncesvalles is beautiful when the sky is blue and sun shining. But 7 hours ?
- There is clearly is a more “commercial” approach to the Camino in Spain compared to France. I think I will be able to adjust.
- My Garmin informed me that my fitness age is that of an excellent 20 year old. That’s the top 1% for my age and gender. After today I can’t disagree.
Song of the day : Never Gonna Give You Up -Rick Astley
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