Day 49 / Pamplona-Lorca / 37.2 km

I wake up in my pod when I hear people preparing to leave. It’s 6.15. Instead of trying to get some more sleep I get up as well. I have breakfeast and leave. It’s still dark and the remnants of pintxo Thursday are still visible in the streets of Pamplona.

I follow the Compostela signs to exit Pamplona. Contrary to my experience in France exiting Pamplona is a pilgrim friendly experience. In France exiting a city means, in most cases, following a busy RN loaded with traffic through industrial and commercial zones. I exit Pamplona by traversing the old city center and some parks. Suddenly I’m out of the city into the green.I’m not the only early bird and pass at least 20 pilgrims during my exit.

Today I will run to Lorca where I will meet Stef (or Esteban). More then 20 years ago Stef owned a cafe/restaurant in Gent called ‘t Gebed zonder Eind where I used to work some time as barman. Today Stef lives in Riezu where he has a Casa rural (a type of B&B) and exports wine and other regional products to Belgium. He also commercialises products to enable eco-friendly and sustainable forestry. I’m looking forward to spend the weekend with Stef, who was also so kind to receive a package with my new pair of running  shoes.

Before I reach Lorca, and Stef, some running needs to be done, including the climb of the mountain El Perdón. The El Perdón is 1037 m high and the top promises a great view over the Navarra region. At the top I will also find  a famous pilgrim’s landmark : the sculpture made by José María Acuña depicting pilgrims on their way to Compostela fighting the wind. As the wind is plenty here , the sculpture has the company of a high number of wind turbines. 

During my climb of the El Perdón, which is over a path with a lot of pebbles, the sun rises and starts warming my back. I do not yet reach the top but the scenery is already magnificent. 

During the last weeks, mainly in Spain, I encounter regularly monuments for people who have deceased on their way to Compostela. Just before the top of El Perdón I encounter the monument for a Frans Koks, a Belgian who died some years ago on this spot. I think If you have to die, there are worse places to die.

After a not to difficult climb I reach the top. It’s not windy today and as announced the views are great. Green fields, mountains as far I can see. I had seen the sculpture already different times on the  internet during my preparation but it feels special to be able to see it “live”. I ask another pilgrim to take a picture of me. I guess each pilgrim who passes here has the same picture taken.

After having some time spend on the top I start my descent over a path with even more pebbles. 

I do not dare to run as the risk for twisting an ankle is to high. My next stop will be Puenta La Reina, a small village some 15 km further. Puenta la Reina is, again, an important pilgrim’s stop known for the medieval bridge given to the city by a queen called  Muniadona. On the way I pass a lot of small villages all catering for the tired and hungry pilgrims. In one of them I stop to have a coffee. I’m not the only pilgrim. I’m still struggling with the volume of pilgrims and the more commercial approach I experience thus far in Spain. In France I was mostly alone and eventually started to like it that way, happily running along. The disadvantage was that you didn’t find a lot shops and bars. Since SJPdP It’s rarely that there isn’t a pilgrim in sight. Pilgrims seems to feel the need to wish all the time  “Buen Camino” which is fine but after the 50th time receiving an upbeat “Buen Camino” I’m somewhat “Buen Camino” overdosed. Americans pilgrims find everything awesome ( I must agree there are a lot of awesome things to see along the route but personally I do not feel the urge to share this loudly with everyone around me).Besides awesome everything is daunting. Deviating 20 meters of what is described in whatever guidebooks followed is “daunting”.  One American pilgrim warned me for a dangerous flooding...when I passed the place a small river indeed escaped it’s bedding and it was not possible to follow the path, you had to walk 50 meters over the normal road. Daunting. Daily I meet pilgrims who inform me, or even yell to me, not to run and that I should enjoy the “way”. Hey, everyone has his or her Camino ! I want to yell back. Instead, I pass them in silence. A real pilgrim I am. 

It’s also clear that for a a lot of towns the Camino is an important source income. Each towns has bars, restaurants and shops targeting the pilgrims passing by.In addition vending machines can be found in most villages. Most vending machines are for drinks and food. In one village I even found a Pharmacy vending machine selling everything from Compeed, tooth paste to condoms at exuberant prices. There are certainly pro’s compared to France but I’m not sure yet if the pro’s weigh out the con’s. 

I reach Puenta La Reina, which is a nice, awesome, small city. When you enter the place you pass a small church which has a beautiful wood crafted Jesus Christ sculpture. To cross the city you take a long straight , somewhat narrow, street through the center. the street is lined with bars and restaurants all with inviting terraces for the weary pilgrim. Almost at the end of the street, just before the Puente la Reina bridge, I select a terrace of a pasteria and have local cake and coffee. 

I cross the Puenta La Reina. Another 15 km to Lorca where Stef and I arranged to meet around 13.00. It’s before 11.00 when I exit Puenta so plenty of time. Before reaching Lorca I climb one last steep ascent but the rest of the way the path gently goes up and down, passing villages on top of low hills.

Around 12.30 I arrive at Lorca and install myself in Albergue de Lorca. Around 13.00 Stef arrives and we have a couple of beers to celebrate or reunion before we go to Riezu where Stef prepares a lunch with local asparagus and some excellent white wine which we consume in the garden. After lunch I have a well deserved (and needed siesta). After the siësta we go for a walk along the Ubagua rivier. Stef is a passionate birdwatcher, nature lover in general, and a great source of information on the local flora and fauna. Stef wanted me to see one bird in special but today it’s a no show. Maybe tomorrow. 

Today I will also (finally) swap my old pair of running shoes for a new pair. The old ones did a really awesome job but are clearly ready to retire. My new ones didn’t do an awesome job yet but just look awesome.  

At 21.00 we have an early dinner (compared to Spanish standards) in a local restaurant. The food, wine and discussions are perfect for a Friday night. After a dessert and coffee I’m ready to go to bed.It’s 23.30. Luckily Stef doesn’t need to practice his repinique until the next day and soon I fall asleep.

Lessons learned :

- It’s awesome to meet old friends. 

- Navarra red wine is awesome.

- My new, red, running shoes are awesome.

- You, we, are all awesome.

Song of today : Queen of Denmark -John Grant

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