Day 55 / Redecilla del Camino

April 26, 2018

Day 55 / Redecilla del Camino - Agés / 40.54 km

Although I have my own room I regularly wake up at night. Around 7.00 I wake up for real. Breakfast is minimal, coffee and a croissant. A group of French guy’s who are doing a part of the Camino on Mountainbike are boasting how fantastic they are, making long stages and climbing all these hills. I hear them complain how difficult it is to pass pilgrims and that they often are not quick enough to let them pass. We leave almost at the same time. The mountain bikes they use are electrically powered.

Around 8.00 I start running. The weather is grey and it is a couple of degrees colder then yesterday. My right feet is complaining again since 2 day’s so the start is somewhat slow. Most of the day the route will parallel a road. The underground is mostly gravel mixed with pebbles, not the most feet friendly underground. Oh, I forgot to mention that since yesterday afternoon I entered the region of Castile and Léon, one of the biggest Spanish regions.

My plan is to run to San Juan de Ortega some 35 k but I’m open to surprises. The first part to Belorade follows the N-120. Truckers often wave or use their horn to encourage the pilgrims along the road.

The city centre of Belorado is not to bad (the intro and exit at not). On the central square I pass a building which has been beautiful decorated with a mural painting.

When I exit Belorado the weather is changing. Blue sky appears and clouds disappear. My feet are no longer complaining, I feel the warmth of the sun on my legs and I’m a happy runner.

Before Villagranca Montes de Oca (I will write this name only one’s) I guide a young girl along a big dog, she’s is terrified. The dog is big but is not aggressive, rather friendly. Afterwards when doing a non runnable ascent I start talking with an Australian. On a 4 km stretch we talk about Bruges, Andalusia, Iran, Pakistan, Alhambra,....He, I forgot his name, will spend the weekend as well in Burgos so maybe we meet again. In The village which I will not repeat again I have lunch, Bocadillo with Spanish Sausages. The bar wher I have lunch is packed with pilgrims. The next stop is 12k away so everyone wants to fuel up. To reach the next stop a climb is required to 1200 meters. Most of the conversations in the bar are about the climb.

The climb is steep but not to difficult. I pass a lot of people, who either had a to big lunch, or not in shape. A lot people with walking poles, a lot of them are using them in the most inefficient way possible. The climb is beautiful and a lot of fun.

The sun is burning at the right temperature. On top of the mountain there is a memorial for 300 republicans being shot death in 1936 at the start of the civil war. The war is still very present today. A lot of today’s political topics have to do with the civil war or find their origin into it. It’s only 40 years ago when democracy was installed in Spain and it’s definitely not at a mature level.

I descent into San Juan de Ortega, known for it’s monastery and garlic soup served to pilgrims. It’s possible to sleep in the monastery but to get dinner attendance in the mass is expected. A to high for garlic soup. After a drink I decide to continue. A good decision. I pass a plateau with great views and cows walking around. Another 5 km and I arrive a Agés. I have done 40k, still feeling fit. Although the next village is only 6k, mostly descending. The terrace in the sun of the local albergue is to inviting. Burgos is 24 k away, easypeasy tomorrow morning.

I check in into a local albergue, the next step is to secure a bed in the dormitory which meet 2 criteria. The 2 criteria to select a bed are, primero : a bed with a power supply next to the bed. Secundo : a bed which is not, or nearby, on the route to the bathroom. I succeed to find a bed which meet both criteria.

It’s 15.00 the rest of the afternoon is shower, washing clothes, having a beer and doing siesta. The pilgrims diner does not contain macaroni for once, instead I have beans with chorizo and a local black pudding with eggs. Both served with chilled red wine.

This morning when I started running I was not in the mood but as the day progressed, the weather improving, It became a great day. I met some interesting people, have seen some great views, did some fun running and did not eat macaroni but black pudding.