Day 62 / Mansilla de Las Mullas-Léon / 19.17 km

I wake up late around 8. Today’s run to Léon is only 19 k and check-in in the hotel I booked is only from 14.00. It’s good to have a late start for once. I expect today a lot of running trough commercial/industrial zones. When I get up my right foot is complaining more then usual. I give it some Voltaren and a massage. The complaining is less but will remain for the rest of the day. I think my foot will like a day and a half of rest. Before leaving Mansilla I look for a bar to have breakfast. No bars or restaurants are open. It’s almost 9. Unusual. Maybe Thursday is general bar closing day in Mansilla. I start running. The first 30 minutes somewhat painful. The Camino is the first kilometres less or more pilgrim free, seeing my late start, but as I near Léon the number of pilgrims I pass increase. Most of the time the Camino is parallel or on a road. 

After 10k I pass a bar where I have breakfast. The sun is shining and it’s not to cold so I have my breakfast outside. A small van stops with around 10 taxi-pilgrims, pilgrims doing most part by taxi or bus. The fun part is that they all are outfitted as they will climb the Mount Everest. In my amazement I forget to take a picture. 

After the bar the Camino leaves the road and takes a path parallel to the road. The path goes up and down. On my left I see farmland, mostly with big electricity poles, on my right the backside of commercial buildings. Somewhat a choice between the cholera or pest. Once in a while the right side view is free of electricity poles, with the Picos de Europa visible in the distance. 

Before entering Léon a last steep climb has to be taken. A cold wind from the north is blowing. The Camino is following a detour on a road as a bridge is under repair. Cars racing by. Just after the hilltop I follow a path with at it’s feet Léon. After crossing a highway I enter Léon. It takes another 30 minutes to reach the old city center. 

I look for, and find, my hotel. I’m again lucky my room is already available, it just noon. I take a shower, give my right foot another massage and for the next 2 hours stroll through the city. Léon is bigger than Burgos, with a big old city center but also with a newer area with big boulevards and a lot of shops. Mainly In the old part a lot of commercial buildings are empty, for sale or rent. It looks as if Léon has a economical tougher time then the other bigger Spanish cities I visited. I’m not in the mood for visiting buildings today, the Cathedral and art museum will have to wait for later. 

Around 13.30 I’m getting hungry but all the restaurants are still empty, so I guess it’s not lunch time yet. Bars slowly fill with people though, having a drink and a tapa. I enter a bar and have a drink. The “tapa etiquette” in Léon is different from Burgos and Pamplona (where you order a drink and choose a tapa presented on the counter), when you order a drink it comes with a tapa. I order a beer and get a small plate of paella in one bar, later in another bar I get patatas bravas. Around 14.15 I find a restaurant which does not only have empty tables but also some locals eating. I have some huevo with asparagus and calamar a la Romano. I have some place left for a helado. 

I return to my hotel for a siesta. I forget to set the alarm clock and wake up at 19.00. I have slept 3 hours. The Cathedral and the musea closes at 20.00 so no cultural activities today. I visit some churches which are open and walk around the city. I fancy a pizza and find a pizza restaurant near my hotel which is open from 19.00. I pass the restaurant around 20.30 but only empty tables are to be found. I decide to extend my walk and have a drink somewhere. Restaurants are empty. Bars are less empty. During my walk I encounter David and his dog. David is wearing sunglasses and speaks somewhat slow. Either alcohol or another drug is helping him through the evening. In best case he is just tired. He is heading out town to find some place to sleep in the rough. I give him some coins which I have. We say goodbye. Maybe we will meet again later. I feel pity for David and Titan. 

Around 21.30 I return to the restaurant, the tables are still empty but at least some people are having a drink at the bar. I order a beer and get a slice of pizza as tapa. Around 22.00 I decide it’s time to eat and ask for a table. When my pizza arrives, 22.30, the other tables start to fill. Around 23.00 I have a coffee and ask for the bill. The other tables are getting their starter. 

Lessons learned :

- Better to set the alarm clock if one wants to be cultural.

- Dinner in Léon is earliest at 21.30.

- Léon is located at 826 meters which explains it gets cold at night.

Song of today : Mr.Bojangles - Nina Simone

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