Day 64 / Léon-Astorga / 47.93 km

I went late to sleep but I’m awake early. 6.30. Yesterday’s  dinner was at 21.15 in a touristic restaurant as I was hungry and didn’t want to wait untill 22.00 before the local restaurants start to fill. When I received the bill I became subject of the bread/butter scam, the restaurant wanted me to charge 3.5 € for bread and butter which was spontaneaous put on the table without the mentioning it would come at a cost. The place was full with people queuing for a table, my voice was loud, words as “police” and “scam” adjusted the bill.

I leave the hotel around 7.00. Everything is closed. No people are on the streets except pilgrims. Exiting Léon goes via a commercial zone after having passed a monastery and an old guy who seems to had a wild night. 

The next 30k is following the RN-120. The Camino is a path parallel to the road with a lot of pebbles. I decide to run on the road. Put my running shoes in 5th gear and run. The road goes slowly up and down although I have the impression it goes more down then up.The running goes great. The views vary of empty farmland and closed, derelict buildings.

I hardly stop for a break. My heartbeat is around 130, I’m doing 11 kmh. Running seems to go seamlessly. Eventually the Camino leaves the RN-120 when entering Hospital de Orbigo, know for it’s medieval bridge. Initially I had planned to stop here but it’s not yet 11 so I decide to continue to Astorga some 16 k further.

With leaving the RN-120 the landscape has changed as well. For the better. In the distance some mountains can be seen ( I guess the part of the Sierra de Ancares), the fields are red earth, the path meanders up and down. No roads nearby. Finally. In a small village I stop for a lunch. The weather is getting warmer, even hot. Few pilgrims.

After a hill Astorga comes into view. The last 4 k is mainly a descent. On the way I encounter a pilgrim with a drinking problem. I ask if I can have a drink as well but he’s not responding.

Astorga is build on top of a hill and is beautiful small city with some nice plaza’s, mediocre cathedral and a remarkable Gaudi designed building. The weather is great, terraces are full with people. After checking in St.Mary Refugio (156 beds - luckily in chambers of 4 to 6) I visit the city, have something to eat and drink. When walking around I meet David and Titan again. David look better then the last time have seen him. 

I’m happy to be on the road again. Running went great today and the last 15 k provided some beautiful scenery. The last couple of day’s before Léon I have seen and heard to much busy roads. I’m also looking forward to start the Camino Invierno which will be less crowded and off-road. I also learn from a roommate that tomorrow a climb to 1400 meters is on the agenda. On top of the mountain I will find one of the most famous Camino landmarks : Cruz de Ferro. I can do with some action.

Lessons learned : 

- Sometimes it’s though to define a lesson learned. Maybe there are day were one doesn’t learn anything. Which is a lesson learned as such. 

- The Camino Frances is not challenging enough. 

- sometimes things are more beautiful from the outside then the inside. As the cathedral from Astorga.

Song of today : Superman - REM

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