Day 67 / Las Medulas - Rúa de Valdeorras/ 42.08 km

May 09, 2018

Day 67 / Las Medulas - Rúa de Valdeorras/ 42.08 km

I decided to start early today in order to avoid the warmth after 13.00. The lady owing the hostal had prepared breakfeast; cookies, margarine and coffee to be heated in the microwave. It seems I was not the only pilgrim staying at the hostel, during breakfast I was joined by an Italian and a Suisse couple. All of them, as myself, filled up our camel bags. They were somewhat suprised when I started sucking out the air of mine (to avoid sloshing), after some explanation every one was happily sucking air out of their camel bag. I left the hostal at the moment it became light and started with a short steep climb. After the climb a followed by a long descent, over 7 k,into a nearby city called Puente de Domingo Flores. The views during the run are great. Perfect running temperature. What could one wish more at 7.30 in the morning.

It’s to early for any bars or shops to be open Puente de Domingo Flores so the only option is to continue to run to the next village another 10 k away, called Sobradelo. I’m looking forward to visit Sobradelo. During my preparation I became fb friends with the bar called Bar Mar. The owners , Carla and Emanuel, are promoting the Invierno and are really helpful if you have any questions (yesterday they arranged sleeping for me in Las Medulas). The path and views underway are splendid.

At Bar Mar I have breakfast and some chat with with Carla as good as possible, my Spanish is none existent , Carla speaks only Spanish. Strangely we understand what needs to be understand. When I explain I’m going to Rúa Valdeorras Carla arranges a place to sleep at the house of “the presidente of the Camino Invierno”. My picture is taken, stamp is put in my credential and name noted in big order book. Emanuel guides me to the Camino, which is just 2 meters from the bar’s front door. The first 2 k is a steep climb along a big road, which is compensated the next 10 k by a small path running through the hills to the town O Barco Valdeorras. Every 3 to 5k I pass a small village, old houses, old people, old streets. The path follows the valley of the river Sil. Below,on the other side of the river Sil’s banks, some limestone factories can be found. The machines cutting and/or breaking the limestone can be heared kilometres away. Nonetheless the views and path are great to run.

O Barco is the economical center of the region. Busy, a lot of shops and commerces. I buy a family sized Empanada, weighing probably 1 kilo, which I plan to have as lunch on my way to Rúa. I’m not in a city visiting mood so I quickly exit Barco. Although rather modern and busy, there’s not so much to se anyway. I have run 30 k, another 10 to go, I’m looking forward to have my lunch with views over the river Sil and mountains.....Helas, the path between Barco and Rúa follows the N120 from nearby. I’m running most of the time parallel on the old N120, separated from the new N120 by commercial and industrial buildings. Although the mountains and river Sil are still present their views are “polluted” by heavy traffic on the N120. The Empanada remains in my backpack until I find a less or more acceptable lunch spot 3 k before Rúa.

After lunch, and a full stomach, I decide to walk the last 3 k into Rúa. When entering Rúa, and checking my Iphone tofind the hostal’s address, an elderly man asks me what I’m looking for. He needs to be in the city centre and guides me into the right direction. It takes some time before I find the place. I call and talk a mixture of Spanish and French. Finally I find the place in a small street behind a church and between some derelict houses. The woman I talked to is the mother of the presidente, 95 years old. Another pilgrim is at the hostal, but he speaks only Spanish, so not helpful to explain who I am and what I need. I eventually understand I need to call another number, the presidente‘s number. The presidente is the daughter of the old lady, her French is some degrees better then my Spanish. After some time Emanuella, the presidente, arrives. On the phone the presidente sounded young but in reality has passed the 70 as well, which shouldn’t be a surprise if your mother is 95. I finally am able to check in. Lengthy information is passed in a mixture of Spanish and French. The most important is I understand is where to eat this evening. The rest of the afternoon is shower, washing clothes and siesta. I wake up from my siesta around 19.00, just in time for an early dinner together with José the Spanish pilgrim. During dinner we have a conversation using google translate. 3G and internet connectivity are poor in the region, needless to say the conversation did not go easy.